Sunday, November 13, 2005

Edge of Fire (Moore's Wall)

Stopper or brown Tri-cam before 5.10 section
Stopper or red Tri-cam mid-5.10 sequence
#2 Camalot at no hands stance after 5.10 sequence, before 5.9 corner
Green Alien and/or #3 BD Copper/Steel nut in 5.9 corner
Bolt
#5 DMM Wallnut at the top of the black hole (if you can)

anchor gear: pink Tri-cam, red Alien, gray Alien, #8 Stopper

Monday, October 10, 2005

Do or Dive (Moore's Wall)

3.0 Tri-cam
2.5 Tri-Cam
Blue TCU
3.0 Friend
4 Rock
5 Rock
Orange TCU
2.5 Friend
Yellow Alien
3.5 Friend
1.0 Tri-cam

anchor
8 Stopper
0.5 Tri-cam
red or gray Alien

Monday, September 12, 2005

Harpoon (Ship Rock)

#4 Stopper
Blue Alien
Red Camalot/#2 Friend
Yellow Camalot

Monday, July 11, 2005

Stab in the Dark (Moore's Wall)

0.5 Tri-cam (cammed) on 2 ft. sling
#8 Stopper
3.5 Friend
2.0 Tri-cam
3.0 Friend
yellow Alien

Shadow Dance (Moore's Wall)

Red Camalot
Blue TCU
Green Alien
#2 Rock
#12 Stopper or Yellow Alien
#4 Stopper
#2 DMM Wallnut
#8 Stopper
#3 Stopper
#1 Rock

The Lark's Tongue (new route, Moore's Wall)

- yellow TCU
- purple TCU
- brown Tri-cam
- #5 Friend
- blue TCU
- small to medium nut
- orange TCU
- small nut or brass
- cluster of medium brassies with Screamer
- blue TCU
- red Alien
- small nut, ballnut, or cam
- sling for the horn
- 3 WC Friend